A terracotta haven in Santorini

Nicoletta Nomicou has a strong connection to the cliffside house that she rents out in Santorini’s world-famous village of Oia: In 1886, her grandfather was born in it. While the Greek island’s wealthier denizens resided on the other side of town, carving into the volcanic rock was an inexpensive way for Nomicou’s ancestors, who worked on the seas, to build a home.

How times have changed: These tunnel-like properties boasting views of Santorini’s iconic caldera and Oia’s postcard-worthy sunsets are now highly sought after. When Nicoletta was a teenager, the owner offered to sell the home back to her father, placing it back in the family. The Terracotta Cave House is now available to guests as two separate apartments: the one pictured here, which is a larger, lower-level space; and above that, a smaller, second-story abode. Both offer breathtaking views of the bay.

Here, Nomicou reveals how she transformed it into a favorite of Vrbo travelers coming to the island. 

When did you start renting out the house, and how has it evolved? 

“I began renovating the house in 2004 when I came to Santorini to work as a tour guide. A year later it was ready, but it was too big to be rented as a whole, so I split it into two separate apartments. Today the lower part, which has a courtyard and a terrace, can sleep six, while the top section, which has a balcony and a roof terrace, sleeps three. It can be rented as a whole or as two separate apartments.” 

The house stands out dramatically on the cliffside—why isn’t it painted white and blue? 

“It’s a myth that houses here have to be painted white; historically, islanders could mix white lime paint themselves, making it the cheapest option. I wanted to imitate the color of the lava which Santorini is built up with, which contains iron oxide and has a beautiful, warm terracotta shade.” 

What sort of guests do the apartments attract, and what feedback do you get? 

“People come here to celebrate a big birthday, or to renew their wedding vows. They find it’s much bigger than they expected and value that it’s in the heart of one of the most beautiful spots on Earth, with restaurants and shops all within five minutes’ walk, but also very quiet. From this house you don’t just see the caldera but the Venetian castle, Thirassia Island, the top of Imerovigli, Firostefani and Fira towns… You see everything—you feel like a god!”

You’re also a local tour guide—what do you bring to the visitor experience?  

“It’s very rare on Santorini for the owner to do the check-in, but I love meeting our guests. During the short walk from the drop-off point in town to the house, I give them so much information about the area, and when we arrive, I explain the architecture and what can be seen from the terrace. I answer any questions while learning about their country and family; it’s very interactive.”

How have you found hosting on Vrbo? 

“My experience across all our properties has been very positive because of the contact we have with guests before they arrive. Communication is so important, and thanks to the reviews on both sides, usually we end up with the perfect match.”

What are your fondest memories of staying here? 

“One summer in the 1980s, my sister and I threw a last-minute party. The house, terrace and both courtyards were absolutely packed with guests (many of whom we didn’t even know). We also loved the view of the caldera from the terraces, never missing a single boat coming or leaving the island since they all cross the bay on their way to the port.”