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The North Carolina Arboretum, southwest of Asheville
Weekender

3 great days in Asheville

By Margaret Littman

August 2024

Nature cozies up to arts and history in this inviting North Carolina mountain town—making it the perfect break for those who love great culture and the great outdoors

The artsy mountain town of Asheville never makes you choose between a culture-rich city getaway, packed with gallery browsing and fine dining, or a mountain retreat with hiking, biking, and rafting. Instead, it delivers on both, offering a robust downtown arts scene and mile after mile of natural beauty in the surrounding hillsides, making it a perfectly balanced long-weekend escape. 

The North Carolina Arboretum
  • The North Carolina Arboretum (also pictured top)

The arts run deep here. This Western North Carolina college town has called to creative minds since the late 1800s, when George W. Vanderbilt recruited skilled artisans to work on his mammoth Biltmore Estate, known as America’s largest private home. Of course, long before that, Indigenous and Appalachian crafts were essential parts of the culture in the surrounding mountains. Today, you can see the same skill and creativity applied in the area’s studios, galleries, and museums.

But nature is never far away: You can easily explore the 512,000 acres of Pisgah National Forest, just 30 minutes from the heart of Asheville, as well as take a scenic drive along the Blue Ridge Parkway. There’s no bad time to visit, but it’s particularly striking when the fall foliage starts to change from green to red and orange. Water sports fans will love the easy access to the French Broad River.

Scroll down for the ultimate three-day itinerary, plus a roundup of some truly special Vrbos, from cozy cabins to chic homes in the heart of town.

Isa's Bistro in Asheville

Downtown Asheville is a haven for diners

The Biltmore Estate

The must-visit Biltmore Estate

Sliding Rock waterfall, near Asheville, North Carolina

Thrills and spills at Sliding Rock waterfall

Your ultimate weekend itinerary

Friday

8am: Get your sugar fix

Start your long weekend on a sweet note with a made-to-order doughnut from Hole Doughnuts, where the yeasted treats are made with local flour. Other options include Bebettes, a New Orleans-style coffee shop, and Biscuit Head, where you can nab a heartier meal of biscuits and gravy, eggs, and other Southern classics.


10am: Uncover your artsy side

Asheville is known for its maker culture, and spending a day exploring the city’s arts scene is essential. Start with the collection of 20th- and 21st-century American art at the Asheville Art Museum. At the Center for Craft you can buy pieces by local artists, watch them work, and—if you plan ahead—take a class yourself. The North Carolina Glass Center has a similar vibe, offering one-day classes in glassblowing and fusing glass. Be sure to wander the streets of Downtown, where a rotating cast of street buskers perform.


3pm: Shop up a storm

Asheville boutiques, galleries, and antique shops embrace the city’s quirky personality. You’ll find everything from artwork to one-of-a-kind jewelry and clothing. Stop by Mast General Store which boasts a candy department and a good stock of outdoor gear for the weekend’s adventures in the wilderness. Don’t miss the Grove Arcade, home to the outdoor Makers Market. Malaprop’s is the city’s beloved independent bookstore, with a coffee shop if you need an afternoon pick-me-up.


7pm: Seek out local fine dining

Downtown Asheville has plenty to keep foodies happy: Isa’s Bistro (pictured) is a stylish farm-to-table restaurant that serves up seasonal Western North Carolina produce with a French twist. Or across the street is Rhubarb, whose chef John Fleer was once known for making Tennessee’s Blackberry Farm a world-class resort. Book a dinner reservation to get a taste of how he uses local ingredients to interpret Appalachian recipes and traditions in modern ways.

Saturday

9am: Stroll through the farmers’ markets

Downtown’s Asheville City Market is a producer-only market, meaning you’ll only find goods that were grown or made in the area. Grab some breakfast (maybe baked goods or oatmeal), and stock up on ingredients for dinner or a picnic lunch for tomorrow’s hike. If you miss the Asheville City Market, don’t worry: There are 17 farmers’ markets in town.


11am: Gorgeous gardens and grand houses

In spring, Asheville is awash with blooms, and in fall, it bursts with seasonal colors. The North Carolina Arboretum is home to 65 acres of cultivated gardens, including the remarkable National Native Azalea Collection, with almost every single species native to the U.S. The must-visit Biltmore Estate (pictured), once home to George Washington Vanderbilt II and family, features gardens designed by Frederick Law Olmsted (the landscape architect behind the U.S. Capitol and New York City’s Central Park); the railroad magnate-philanthropist’s former home also includes a winery and tasting room.


5pm: Eat, drink and toast

Asheville is home to more than 50 breweries, one of the highest brewery-per-capita ratios in America. (Many attribute their success to the city’s pure mountain water.) You’ll find nearly a dozen to choose from in the South Slope Brewing District. Afterwards, check out the local artists’ galleries and shops. For dinner, consider Chai Pani, a James Beard- and Michelin-lauded spot known for its innovative Indian street food. End the night in Pack Square with some bean-to-bar goodness from French Broad Chocolates.

Sunday

8am: Up and at ’em

Whip up breakfast with the fresh produce and baked goods from yesterday’s farmers’ market, then head for a caffeine boost at one of High Five Coffee’s locations.


10am: Lace up those boots

Asheville’s proximity to the Blue Ridge Parkway, French Broad River, and Pisgah National Forest makes it easy to spend all your time outdoors, and there’s an experience to fit—no matter your fitness level. The moderate 2.6-mile round-trip hike up Mount Pisgah Trail is popular because it offers views of the city and the surrounding landscape. If you are up for something more strenuous, opt for the 6.5-mile round-trip trek to Looking Glass Rock. If hiking isn’t your thing, consider horseback riding at Pisgah Forest Stables; or slip-sliding fun at the aptly named Sliding Rock waterfall (pictured). Or see the mountains from your car by driving a section of the blissful Blue Ridge Parkway, with no billboards or commercial distractions for 469 miles. Take a picnic lunch for one of the scenic stops along the way.


4pm: Wind down with a healthy dinner

Wrap up the weekend with dinner at Plant, an innovative vegan restaurant that pulls from globally inspired traditions. The majority of the menu is made with organic ingredients.

3 Asheville hideaways

A Moroccan-inspired Vrbo in Asheville Carolina
An urban oasis
A winner with a waterfall view
A Moroccan-inspired Vrbo in Asheville Carolina
An urban oasis
A Vrbo in the middle of the woods in fall
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Fall

Take a front-row seat for fall

Embrace leaf-peeping season with a break at one of these perfectly placed cabins

Read now
Photo of Margaret Littman
Margaret Littman
Writer

Margaret Littman tells the stories of the people and places of the American South. From her home in Nashville, she has written for Conde Nast Traveler, Preservation, National Geographic and many others. She is the author of several guidebooks to the region, including Moon Nashville to New Orleans Road Trip, which covers the historic Natchez Trace Parkway. An avid paddleboarder, Margaret has paddled in all 50 states.

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