Todos Santos

"My friends and I just got back from celebrating a pair of birthdays during a magical week in the lovely Casa de los Abuellos. With its two full bathrooms, the casita is perfect for two couples or a family. We cooked many meals in the shared kitchen with fresh groceries from the nearby stores and farmer's stand, which even had fresh chicken and eggs! The four-legged Cody, Diana and Apolo are an adoring and constant presence. If not for them, we wouldn't have discovered the enormous roof deck on which we fell asleep most nights under a star-filled sky. The small pool is soothingly warm by late morning. The walk into town is pleasant and full of interesting sights; you can break it up with a stop at La Esquina. Hugo is dependably sweet and very helpful. While we never did meet Anjelica while we were there, we certainly felt her presence in the casa's impressive cleanliness. There are things to be aware of (though these are far from a complaint): this is rustic living, and as such, there's a limited supply of potable water. Be prepared to buy water, or bring your own purifier to cut down on the plastic. The horses are gone, and the nearest beach is impossible to swim in, but the waves are savagely beautiful. If you're finding your way for the first time, just follow the signs for Sole Caliente; you'll see the Rancho on your left. When you get there, it's too easy to just want to hang around the rancho staring at the hooded orioles and magnificent frigatebirds. Bring binoculars. Bring watercolors. Bring your best camera. And leave your stress behind."