This is a really tough review to write because I want to be fair and honest. Clearly much thought and care had gone into the furnishings of this Riad with wonderful Moroccan rugs, artisan objects, paper lamps, tapestries etc. Anneke was always quick to respond in early days of booking.However,on the night I arrived, Pierre the house man who was friendly and kind, came to collect me and I was brought to a filthy dark corridor on Rue Chbanat and into a dark hallway then up filthy, slippery and steep stairs in pitch black as there were no lights. Pierre had to use his phone flash to light the way. The place felt unused in a long time. I was told to keep the plastic paper over the shower drain to prevent the smells from coming in. In the morning there was a smell of sewage. I went out into the hall and saw open piles of garbage beside the door. I went to see the terrace, managed to get the door open 6 inches but then it absolutely stuck. The people in the apartments beside are obviously desperately poor and living in really tough conditions. They were incredibly kind in helping me with doors that didn’t open ( One women climbed up on a window sill and pulled over head the door so that I could get in on returning in the afternoon. This was my 4thPlace in 2 weeks staying in Morocco and it didn’t feel right. The first night I made myself cous cous and vegetables, was meticulous boiling everything and using bottled water for brushing my teeth. The next day I was violently ill, and for 24 hrs went in and out of consciousness. Pierre said it must have been the snack I had from the place he took me to when I arrived. The long of this is that I knew I had to get out. When putting the key underneath the door I saw cockroaches on the floor. After numerous attempts to get up, I made it outside to the stairs and then collapsed. I came to with the neighbour women propping me up , holding my hands and putting water on my face. This is the best of Essaouira - the kindness of the people who helped me, got an ambulance, and who are genuinely good and honest. I was told at the hospital that they had a lot of calls from that area.
I don’t want to be cruel, but this is not the place for anyone but intrepid young men and women who are used to staying anywhere. The building needs to be clean, the doors need to work, and there has to be well lit stairwells and stairways to make this safe for travellers. What I will remember are the women next door who stayed with me.
