One arrives at the Perpoli Villa after driving up a winding, narrow road until you think you're lost, then suddenly you pass through a stone archway and onto a cobbled alley that leads to the doorway of a classic country villa. This is a lovingly restored 12th century castle said to have been the summer Residence of the Bishop of Pisa. The first thing to do is step onto the terrace and take in sweeping views of the Tuscan hills, studded with tiny vineyards, fruit orchards, and pointy cypress trees that look like patchwork quilts of green along the gentle slopes in the distance. The house is extremely well-appointed, with a modern chef’s kitchen that was the center of family activity for our stay. The pool is a refreshing and luxurious retreat from the heat of the Tuscan summer. The rooms and baths have modern
amenities without losing any of the ancient charm of the place. We shared the house with three families, and kids of various ages, and there was enough space to gather everyone for meals or find private time away from the group.
This was my family’s first trip to Italy and while the villa feels very far from the crowded streets of the busy tourist cities,
we were close enough to visit the major Tuscan sights in a day trip. It was an easy drive to Pisa (about an hour), the Roman beach resort of Viareggio, the Carrara marble mines,
and the medieval walled city of Lucca with its fashionable European vibe (50 minutes). On market day, we drove 10 minutes to Castelnuovo di Garfagna where we shopped for iItalian linens, shoes, clothes and kitchenware, all ridiculously inexpensive.
My favorite hill town was tiny, magical Barga, just 10 minutes away, where opera poured from doorways and windows. On lazy days we stayed by the pool while the kids wandered through the orchards looking for plums, and then for dinner visited a restaurant 5 minutes down the hill that served pasta as good as any you’ll ever eat. My 11-year-old and 16-year-old proclaimed our vacation in Perpoli the best of their lives and keep asking when we can go back. We felt as if we’d been let in on a wonderful secret and we will return as soon as we can.
