The city of Split is a little gem. Big enough to have an airport, small enough to explore on foot, rugged hills form a backdrop to a natural harbour protected by numerous offshore islands. The setting is stunning.
We travelled in late October and hoped to swim and to explore the Roman palace and camp. We were not disappointed; Diocletian's Palace is not a relic but the beating heart of a thriving old town.
Lavender Studio is about 10 minutes walk from...everywhere. The fishmarket, veg market, palace, buses, shops and restaurants are all within an easy stroll. Be warned, though, that this is a place for people with good legs and proper shoes. The studio is a up a gently sloping path and is compact and beautifully maintained. Everything was spanking new and immaculate. The kitchen was obviously on the small side but as seafood freaks we managed. Local tuna, mussels, prawns, squid, clams and sardines all hit the pan, served with soft black olives and the local golden sherry-like wine.
The owners of Lavender Studio could not have been more welcoming. Like many Croations they towered above us but there was nothing high-handed in their manner. Rather, they made us feel very welcome from the outset and we left with a desire to return.
A summary? Split is not a place for clubbers or those seeking to grab a sun-lounger by the pool. Sadly, a cruise liner did dock and ruin the view but the inmates were given a quick stroll in an orderly line which was at least humane.
The city is ideal for amateur and professional Classicists, lovers of wholesome rustic food, swimmers, cats and those who lean more towards Puglia than the Costa Brava.
Lavender Studio provides a great little base for a mobile couple with no more than a toddler in tow. 5 stars are denied because of a lack of sea views and a lovely but shady patio; we want to return in the warmer months and swim several times a day.