This lovely apartment in an old building in the heart of the Alfama was a superb base of operations. Elli is one of the most incredible hosts and was extremely helpful to us. The apartment was not luxurious, but rather very clean, simple and thoughtfully equipped with things like guide books (very useful), espresso maker with coffee (deeply appreciated), and even a sofa bed which was made up just in case of any sleep problems. Elli is fantastic! Steep stairs are briefly challenging, and of course, the Alfama itself is not for the faint of heart. Great location to the metro and train station is a plus.