If you are looking for nightlife and shopping, Chelem is not the place you are looking for. On week day mornings you will have the beach to yourself and you can stroll for miles collecting seashells or stop and watch the fishermen cast their nets from their brightly painted open boats. The beach is a little more lively on the weekends but it is a totally different beach scene then what you find on the Caribbean side of the Yucatan Peninsula. This is real Mexico and instead of row upon row of beach chairs lined up to rent for the day what you will find on the playa de Chelem are local families, picnicing and enjoying the warm shallow water, while vendors stroll the beach with boxes of pastries perched on their heads. On Sunday mornings grab a market basket and walk into the village to join the locals as they stop at their favorite stalls in the mercado or along the calle to buy conchinita pibil or ceviche.

Although you have to take the usual precautions of locking doors when you leave and making sure that any valuables are stowed safely away, there is none of the danger here that is reported in the border towns hundreds of miles away.

If you feel like leaving the peaceful solitude of our little village you can always take a short drive (6km) over the bridge to Progreso which has a bustling little downtown, especially on the days the cruise ships come in. Pull up a chair at one of our favorite beach bars to join our friendly band of expats as they watch the antics of the locals and the cruise ship passengers or stroll through the market where you will find everything from handmade hammocks to beautiful talavera pottery to the usual tourist souvenirs. There are also several marinas in Progreso which have fishing charters and boat rentals.

Merida is the secret jewel of Mexico. It is a beautiful colonial city of about a million people that mixes the best of old world beauty and grace with modern convenience. There are countless museums and cathedrals to explore plus several sophisticated shopping centers and international cuisine. Every Saturday night the streets around El Centro in Merida are blocked off and the restaurants move their tables and chairs outside and musicians play on every corner. Children run laughing through the streets at midnight while their parents and grandparents dine leisurely in the cool evening air. No one is worried for their safety. The party continues every Sunday with a fiesta that includes music and dancing and numerous food vendors and artisans.

We like to get up early on Sundays and drive into Progreso to catch the bus to Merida which drops us off right at the Plaza Grande where we can walk to mass at the oldest cathedral in the Americas. We spend the rest of the day strolling through the vendors and shops of El Centro, stopping to enjoy warm sugary churros or crispy panuchos and a cold beer or frosty marguerita before catching the bus home to spend a relaxing evening watching the stars come out as we walk along the beach.

There are many Mayan Ruins and cenotes (blue holes) in the area to travel to for day trips. Chichen Itza is a 2.5 hr. drive or you can arrange tours through operators in Progreso or Merida. Campeche, another UNESCO World Heritage Site in also within driving distance and is really worth the trip to see their museum and amazing Mayan and Spanish relics.

There is a large U.S. and Canandian community here. Our casa is located on the outskirts of town and most of the surrounding homes are second homes for residents of Merida who only visit them during Easter week and the months of July and August. We do have a handful of expat neighbors on our beachroad but for the most part you will have the beach to yourself. Our caretaker speaks fluent English and she will be able to assist you in any way you need.